We took an evening bus out of Hanoi going south. There is only one road that runs up and down Vietnam, nh-1, and its only a two lane road. So we picked this little town called Dong Hoi, about 10 hours south of Hanoi, to spend a couple of days. It was supposed to be very quiet and have beautiful beaches. After spending so much time in busy cities, especially Hanoi, we wanted something a bit more tranquil. But the kicker here is that there arent any bus stations in Dong Hoi and 10 hours from departure puts us into Dong Hoi at 530 in the morning. And since there arent any bus stations the driver just decides to pull over somewhere and let us off.
The sun is just coming up, we are tired, and now we need a place to stay. We eventually wake this lady up who is sleeping in a hammock inside of a dark hotel and ask for a room. Since we are foreigners her first instinct is Lets take these foreign bastards for everything they've got. So we bargain our way around until we settle on a price of about 5 dollars a night. The town is deserted. Obviously so at 530 in the morning but also in the middle of the day. Just a few people here and there: sitting around drinking iced coffee, smoking cigarettes, and cruising on scooters.
But we spend a couple of days here, trying to find the merits of this little town. The beach is very nice. It bends along the coast for miles with no one in sight. The water is warm but still refreshing. But two dudes really can only have so much fun on a deserted beach together. One day of that proved to provide the tranquility we were searching for. Now, I think I can say with some assurance that there is a reason we could not find a map anywhere of the town or any mention of it in guide books. There are no computers in the town, thats why we have appeared incommunicado, and no english is spoken. An authentic experiance to say the least.
The food was also fairly limiting in this town. About a million pho shops and not much else. Don't get me wrong I love pho. Its like noodles and soup, oftentimes with chicken or beef (or some kind of reddish meat). Soup and noodles are maybe two of my favorite foods so pho is right up my alley. But a town where all they serve is pho is kind of like going to a town and finding out all there is to eat is pizza. Or cheerios.
So yesterday, in the rain, we decided it was time to get the fuck out. Getting a bus is kind of the exact opposite of leaving one: you stand on the side of the road and wave like a crazy person when you see one coming. Then there is always the awkward moment when you step onto the bus and feel about 40 pairs of eyes. I thought I might like the feeling of being completely different, but actually it just makes me blush. Everyone turns around in their seats to watch you as you try and fold yourself into seats not built for a six-one frame. Plus we are dripping wet from standing in the rain. Then again with the godamn bargaining until we end up paying a reasonable price for a ticket to Da Nang (about 7 hours and five dollars) We'll probably spend a few days here before going to Hoi An, which is supposed to be great and where a group of four swedes are waiting for us. We met them in China and they are funny shit. All 19 years old and straight out of highschool. Tall, blond, and beautiful. They really crack me up.
p.s. I got my first sunburn. It's on my nose.
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